By Carmen, Styling at Princess Goes Hollywood
I’ll say it straight: I go to the Oktoberfest for the food. The roasted chicken, the pretzels with butter, the Obatzda. And, of course, for the atmosphere, the music, the hustle and bustle in the tents. But mainly the food.
As a stylist, what I wear is still important to me, of course. I just believe that you don't need a dirndl to stand out in a place like Oktoberfest. What you need is a janker. A really good one.
A brief history of the misunderstood classic
The janker has a longer history than most people think. The term itself was already used in the 16th century. Back then, it referred to a floor-length women's coat. It was only from the 18th century onwards that it stood for the short, fitted traditional jacket we know today. It originated in the Alpine regions of Bavaria and Austria, where it was part of the rural population's workwear: practical, warm, made of heavy felted wool fabric, entirely from sheep's wool, condensed in an elaborate process with heat and pressure.
What distinguishes the janker from other jackets is its distinctive appearance: the short, hip-length silhouette, the characteristic horn or metal buttons, the contrasting piping on the edges. These details are not just decoration; they were once distinguishing features. In traditional costume, the piping color once communicated the regional origin of its wearer. A language of fabric and color that could be read if you knew how.
Emperor Franz Joseph I wore traditional costume when hunting. Prince Regent Luitpold of Bavaria did too. The Bavarian population followed the royal example, and since the early 19th century, alpine traditional costume became a cultural symbol, not only for rural tradition but for a certain attitude towards nature, quality, and craftsmanship.
All of this is encapsulated in the janker, and that's precisely why I still find it fascinating today.
Why the janker is making a comeback right now
Fashion runs in cycles, that's nothing new. But what I'm observing right now, on the streets, on set, in collections, is a pretty clear movement away from the fast-paced, towards clothing with substance. Alpine aesthetics, New Heritage, artisanal quality: these are the terms popping up everywhere right now. And the janker is their best example.
It's not new, and it's not really a trend either, but rather the result of decades in which a silhouette has settled in so long that it just fits. The piping, the buttons, this proportion—it doesn't come from nowhere. There's simply craftsmanship involved.
And at the same time, it has something that many trendy pieces don't: it works just as well outside its original context as within it. Perhaps even better.
How I wear the janker today
I find it almost unbeatable with a skirt. A grey Glen check pleated skirt, a structured camel wool skirt: the janker gives the look precision, the skirt lightness. It's not complicated, it just works.
With jeans, I prefer to wear it very simply: janker, dark straight-leg jeans, flat boots. This is the look where I don't have to explain anything on set because it explains itself. If you want, add a delicate gold chain. Nothing more is needed.
It's underestimated for evening wear. Yet, a fine wool-cashmere janker over a silk top, paired with black trousers and a small heel, is one of the strongest evening looks I know. The janker is then the eye-catcher. Everything else can be understated.
And at the Wiesn? There, it wears itself. With a white ruffled blouse underneath, dark jeans, and knee-high boots. Order some roasted chicken, a pretzel, and don't worry too much about the grease stain from the chicken; the janker handles it easily.
The question of color: Why it is crucial
Originally, the color of the piping communicated origin: green for forested areas, blue for lake landscapes, red for specific traditional costume regions. This language has been lost today. What remains is the knowledge that color is not secondary when it comes to a janker.
If you don't have a janker yet, go for color. Not grey or beige, as beautiful as that may be, but something with energy. A bright red, a deep ivy green, a rich pink. The janker thrives on its appearance. In a strong color, it develops a presence that is otherwise only known from very good accessories.
If you already have a neutral janker, get one in color. And if you're brave, wear both layered. Two jankers in different colors as a layering experiment is a look that is popping up everywhere on the streets right now and always works.
What you should look for when buying
A good janker fits snugly to the body without being restrictive. There must still be room for a blouse or a fine knit under the button placket, otherwise the whole silhouette looks stunted. It should end precisely at the shoulders; this is the detail that shows quality in traditional cuts. The length ends at the waist or just below; anything else shifts the proportion.
For the material, the wool content is what matters: it gives the janker its structure and the warmth that actually makes it wearable in autumn. Cashmere takes care of the rest, the soft, luxurious feel that makes you not want to take the jacket off. It is precisely this combination that determines whether a janker remains a seasonal item or becomes a permanent part of your wardrobe.
What the janker really is
For me, it's not a traditional costume piece, not a costume, and certainly not a nostalgia object.
It's simply a piece I can rely on. I don't think long about whether it fits; it just fits. And that's exactly why I keep bringing it out: on set, in the city, at the Wiesn, at fondue with friends.
It fits well, it's warm, and I'll probably still be wearing it ten years from now.
You can find our janker models made of 90% wool and 10% cashmere in the Bavarian meets Boheme collection. And to learn how alpine aesthetics work at the Wiesn even without a dirndl, read my Wiesn guide.
